Thursday, July 10, 2008

Flat Sara and the Ambassadors

Well, Flat Sara already had the opportunity to meet the American Ambassador to the Czech Republic and the Canadian Ambassador to the Czech Republic (no pictures of that one, however. . .Flat Sara was a bit tired and stayed home that day).

And now she gets to meet her third Ambassador of the summer. . .the Canadian Ambassador to Italy. . .who just happens to share the last name Himelfarb.

That's right. Randomly, during my time at the CEELI annual meeting, I was introduced to a nice man who knows Ambassador Himelfarb and who was quite curious if we were related. He asked me to e-mail the Ambassador, just to say hi.

Long story short - Ambassador Himelfarb said I should come to Rome where I could visit him and his wife.

So today, I booked my SkyEurope airfare, made my hostel reservations - at a place with a pool so I can veg out before I leave Europe - and Flat Sara will soon be on her way to pictures with the Spanish Steps, the Vatican, and the Fontana di Trevi. I've been to Rome before (I guess that 3rd coin in the Fountain worked), but I have to admit that I am really excited for a little heat, some gelato, and a language that I can understand a little bit. Not to mention a visit with a long-lost cousin, several times removed. :)

In other news - I have three more documents to finish for the Burma Center, and I will be done! I feel pretty good about the work I completed this summer, the amazing connections I've made, and I really feel that I made the most out of my time here, seeing almost everything I wanted to see (besides Poland - but that will have to be a trip of its own - and I think it would have been difficult emotionally, so it would be better to do when Robert or someone could go with me).

I feel really good right now, and am psyched for the next few weeks. I have to admit that I've been quite homesick the last two weeks or so - mainly, I think, because I have a LOT to do when I get home, and I'm always anxious when I don't know exactly what I'm doing next. I know that I am going to have to get a job right away, so that's been weighing heavily on my mind. Money will be an issue for one of the first times ever in my life (I've always worked so many hours - it's odd to be this close to just making ends meet). . .but things always work out in the end, and I'm sure something will work out for me - even if that "something" is Starbucks for a few months. :) So, this trip to Rome has reinvigorated my spirit. And I'm really psyched about everything I've gotten to do and try over the past two months. I feel really happy right now.

I hope everyone is having a great Thursday!

Tuesday, July 8, 2008

Playing tourist

I've been running around like a crazy person. After the CEELI Board Meeting and the final submission of the grant, I took a few days to head to Budapest and Vienna.

It was pretty awesome.

So Budapest first:

Our hostel was great - incredibly cheap, pretty clean, and very cool inside. Amanda and I went out in search of some scenery and definitely found it. . .Budapest is a BEAUTIFUL city. The Danube is smack between Buda and Pest, with Parliament on one side and the palace on the other. We checked out the Opera House and the Cable Bridge, before heading to a fun bar where we danced and hung out with the locals - watching many of them sing English songs with Hungarian accents. We were both surprised at how friendly everyone was, and how EVERYONE spoke English. Definitely a shock after our last few weeks in the CZ.

We got up early to do some sight seeing - checking out the churches in Buda, along with the Palace Labyrinth, a series of caves carved out under Buda by the hot springs that run under the city. Amanda went off to the Pride parade - definitely check out her blog to hear about that one - and I went off to explore the castle. A huge festival was going on inside, which was pretty cool - it's amazing to roam through a castle while medieval music is playing in the background and people dressed in period costume are eating sausages while sitting in the middle of the castle courtyard.

Amanda and I met back up on the bridge to do some souvenir shopping and ate the most amazing funnel cake/bread/donut thing I have ever had which they cook over spits and are hot and crispy and amazing. I have a picture somewhere on the slideshow. . .I was a happy camper. I highly recommend Budapest to anyone going to Europe - like CZ - Hungary is not on the Euro yet, and unlike CZ, this makes a significant difference. Stuff was slightly cheaper in Budapest than it would be in the US - I don't think we ate a single meal that cost me more than 10 dollars, and we bought some really great souvenirs. . .check out the picture of Amanda's new hat on the blog.

We left early the next day for Vienna, which we had heard mixed reviews about. . .however, once we arrived in Vienna we were super happy. It's a great city - extremely clean and efficient and we had no problem finding our hostel for the night. We did some major walking after checking in - taking a look at the Parliament building and other famous landmarks. We also ate the most ridiculous sundaes ever at a cafe.

The next day, we did some major sightseeing - including the opera house, the palaces, the butterfly house, etc. My pictures have captions, so you might get a better sense by checking them out. I was pretty unhappy about leaving Vienna - but I have to push through. If Robert ever states that he would like to move to Germany/Austria/Switzerland or some other exceptionally clean, friendly country - I'm on board. Just sign me up for my German lessons now. I love the anal retentive nature of the subway system, the swift apologies given for bumping in to someone, and the great energy efficiency - Vienna was so efficient that when there is no one on the escalators, they slow down to an almost stop, as to not use so much energy. Once someone steps on and trips a sensor, they go right back to normal. Ingenius.

In other news, I think I will be nearly done with my project in about a week and a half (I had very little to do these past few days, as the Burma Center directors are on vacation and I had finished everything they gave me to do), so I just have some loose ends to tie up and my Clinton School paper to write and then I will be totally finished - most likely with a week and a half to spare. I'm doing some little side projects for a few different people here in town, so that should keep me relatively occupied. I got a lot accomplished by working ridiculous hours the first month and a half, so I get to play grasshopper and enjoy myself a little bit more, now that the work is nearly complete.

Anyways - enjoy the pictures. For those interested in my schedule for the rest of the summer, here you go. . .any days not marked on here are workdays in Prague.

July 12-13: In Prague - Jewish quarter and Zoo
July 19-20: Cesky Krumlov
July 23-24: Plzen (to visit the language4law.com director and CEELI fellow and volunteer at his TEFL school)
July 30-August 2nd: Rome
August 5: Leave CZ - fly to London, Los Angeles, and Portland
August 9-11: Vancouver, BC
August 12-14: Orcas Islands, Washington
August 15: Leave Portland - Arrive in Little Rock. . .hopefully around 9 pm, I'll be having a margarita and a Flying Burrito quesadilla with my buddies! Can we plan this now, please? :)

Sunday, June 29, 2008

Happier Brno Stories

Hi all -

So here is the rest of what happened in Brno.

* I visited the Capuchin Crypt where the bodies of nuns and monks were left after they died. The Crypt has such a specific air flow that the bodies naturally mummified. I was NOT supposed to take pictures, but as I was the only person in the place (soon to become a trend on the trip), I turned the flash off and tried to get some shots. My favorite mummy? The body of a nun who was supposedly buried alive. You will notice her in the shots because her hands are not crossed and her head is turned to the side. They think, because of her body postion, that she must not have been buried completely dead. Spooky.

* I went to Speilberk Castle which is really, really cool. It's a fortress and has a real moat, where there used to be bears living. It also houses a famous prison, which I took tons of pictures of (again, completely against the rules). I was totally alone for my ENTIRE tour of the castle and prison which took about 4 hours, so that was amazing. Being in a prison where the average lifespan of the prisoner was one month, by yourself, in the dark, was a pretty eerie experience. The prison was also about 20 degrees colder than it was outside - so I could only imagine what the place was like in the winter.

* Amanda and I went to a neat bar called H46 where we met Fido, the most gorgeous, wonderful waiter of all time. He kept us well-plied with alcohol (including my first taste of absynthe - not ever going to replace tequila in my cupboard), and generally entertained us for two nights in a row. We're hoping he will come and visit us in Prague.

That's about it. Brno was nice - people were super friendly, and we had a great time besides the incident at Pride (which you can watch film of here). We're both exhausted and feel pretty drained altogether.

So - check out the pictures. Tonight starts the festivities surrounding the CEELI board meeting, and though I am excited about it, I really, REALLY wish I wasn't having to go to a big networking, dress-up event tonight since all I want to do is lie in bed and sleep. But, as the Clinton School has taught us, I know I have to take advantage of every opportunity. So I will smile, talk up the school, and drink some nice red wine. :)

Saturday, June 28, 2008

Give yourself a hug from me.

So, I'm in Moravia, in a town called Brno - the second largest in the Czech Republic. It's interesting and I will have lots of pictures to show once I am able to be in a place with a more consistent internet connection, but for now, I just want to write about what happened today so I can stop thinking about it for awhile. I have to apologize in advance because I know people will be upset about what Amanda and I witnessed today and the fact that we were even there - but truly - we didn't think it would get so out of hand.

So.

Amanda and I came down to Brno so that I could do some sightseeing and she could do some interviews with gay activists in the city. Brno also held their first pride parade ever, which is pretty exciting. Having been to prides in Phoenix, San Diego, and New York - I know them to be days filled with fun, music, laughter, rainbows, and drag queens - the greatest people on the face of the Earth. I have shared in watching people stand up for who they are and who they love. There have always been messengers of hate at these events - most notably, Reverend Phelps, the man himself, and his cronies at San Diego pride with their ever-so-clever God Hates Fags memorabilia. But, the love and joy of those celebrating their community always tuned out the messages of hate.

Amanda and I went down to the event around noon and joined the small handful of people who had gathered so far for the event. Pink triangles were handed out and rainbows were painted on faces. There was excitement in the air and police were on guard, as there had been threats from right-wing and neo-nazi organizations in the area. A man dressed as a monk walked through carrying a huge cross and another man preached to the crowd, but no one paid them much mind. Another group of "protesters" gathered nearby to pray for the "sinners" in the crowd, but again, things were peaceful. Music played and besides the fact that the crowd was small, it seemed much like a normal pride festival.

The program began with organizers getting on stage and talking to the crowd - this was all in Czech, so we didn't know what they were saying - but the gist seemed to be about equality and love. A pair of extremely handsome men stood near us holding two little boys - one with a tee shirt that said, "I get my muscles from my daddies" and the other's saying "I still have TWO parents." They were absolutely adorable and I couldn't get enough of them. A trio of drag queens got up on stage and performed, and Amanda and I were laughing and having a great time being part of this historic event that means so much to the community here.

And then things got crazy.

A bottle of water was thrown at the drag queens and people behind us started freaking out and pushing forward. Neo-nazis had attacked the group and were hitting and kicking people all around us. Amanda and I turned around to see the man behind us now on the ground being kicked mercilessly by a skinhead. Eggs were being pelted at people and Amanda and I began to run. We ducked behind a van when the sound of explosions started, something going off right near our feet, and we both thought that guns were being shot at the group. We ran as fast as we could down the street, not looking behind us to see if the others were following, Amanda tearing off her stickers and buttons as we went so we wouldn't be identified. We stayed down the street for awhile and joined others who had fled the event, all comparing notes and trying to calm down.

Eventually, we ventured back. I was concerned about the little boys and their daddies, but luckily they seem to have gotten out of there okay, though the two little boys were still crying as they navigated the crowd to leave. SWAT-type officers had taken posts at every street corner, so the square seemed much safer. We stayed a distance from the festivities, trying to recoup some of our previous elation at being in the CZ for this event. The drag queens went back on stage, which I thought was awesome and incredibly brave - though I should have known - some the toughest and most amazing people I have met in my brief lifetime like to put on wigs and sing Cher on Saturday nights. We saw skinheads being escorted in for processing and learned later that the explosions we heard were M-80 fireworks being chucked into the crowd.

Seeing the SWAT team, Amanda and I sucked it up and joined in the march down the street. Both GLBT and straight individuals marched together, shouting and smiling, flanked on both side by officers in full riot gear. The march was peaceful - only a few people booed or yelled anything that seemed negative - and we made it back to the square.

By this point, Amanda and I were tired and decided to stop in a cafe on our way home to grab a drink. As we waited in line, people started running through the square, and smoke was pouring into the cafe. Figuring out promptly that it was tear gas, Amanda and I ran up the stairs into a grocery store, but got a good dose of tear gas, which is a fun experience, let me tell you.

We made it home to the hotel where we are both resting now. There is a large party for pride tonight but we decided not to go, of course. We're going to go to the movies and try to forget, for a few moments, about all the hate in the world. I haven't been this sad about the world for a long time. Generally, I try to focus on how to make the world better, to work to end injustice or suffering, rather than trying to get bogged down in how terrible things are.

But, today, it's difficult.

I have watched my GLBT friends be disowned, hit with glass bottles, yelled at, told they were going to hell and failed to be served at restaurants. But I have never witnessed anything like what I witnessed today. Hate is so powerful that it is all-consuming. Today, there was no fear of arrest for these people, there was no conflict of conscience about harming another human being. Hate flowed through them until it poisoned everything about a day that I have always seen as a symbol of love. So, I'm asking you - give each other a hug today, share your love with the people closest to you - because the only way I can see to overcome the disgusting acts of violence I saw today is to love each other just a little bit more and not take anything for granted.


-------------------------------------P.S.--------------------------------------------
I wanted to add this - this blog is not a reflection on the Czech Republic. I have seen no other acts of violence in my time here and find Czech people very peaceful. What occured today is about hate in a particular segment of society. And having spent my entire senior year of college writing my thesis on women in white supremacy groups, I can say that these people exist in full force in the United States. The Czech people I know would be as disgusted with this behavior as I was and an event like this could have just as easily happened in Little Rock as it did in Brno. I know you all know this, but I just wanted to be clear.

Tuesday, June 24, 2008

Just a quickie

Hi all. I haven't disappeared off the face of the earth. I've just been sick. As in, stayed in bed all weekend sick. So, truly, there is nothing terribly exciting to report.

Prague is WAY busier than it was just a few weeks ago. Tourists are out in droves and transporation is pretty crazy. There was a strike here yesterday on the train and bus lines and at the hospitals - and given that no one knew it was going to happen, it caused some major issues for people and backed up the metros for a long time.

Amanda and I secured our ISIC cards and our tickets for Brno, Budapest, and Vienna for two weekend trips coming up. This was quite the fiasco today - ending with a margarita for Amanda and a mojito for me just to celebrate our ability to get it all done.

Work is going well - I'm estimating that I will have written over a hundred pages of documents this summer, which is good. It's nice to be back in the swing of writing, though sometimes I want to bash my head against a wall. I have the opportunity to attend CEELI's annual board meetings next week, so it will be me and a whole lot of (Republican) lawyers. Which is always fun, right? Actually, I'm most excited about the evening at the Ambassador's house, which is supposed to be absolutely gorgeous.

I can honestly say that I'm starting to get a bit homesick. The lack of smiles is really getting to me, as is the pushing, shoving, and impatience with my English that seems to be getting a little harder each day, especially as the city gets busier and busier. I miss Robert and am super excited to see him and travel to Canada. But, I keep reminding myself to live in the moment (I'm such a plan-ahead-er), and I think it will be good to be out of Prague for a couple of days. All of the places I've visited outside of the city center have been friendlier, and I think that's what I need right now - some relaxation in a pretty place, some good wine, and to play tourist for a weekend.

That's all I can think of for now. Hope things are well with all of you.

Wednesday, June 18, 2008

In German? Himelfarb = Color of Heaven. In English? Himelfarb = Bad jokes about your name.

Yesterday, I had the opportunity to travel to Dresden, Germany with Christoph, the director of the Burma Center, and I had an absolutely great time.

We caught the train early in the morning, and though I was tired, I thoroughly enjoyed the beautiful two hour ride that followed the river all the way from Prague into Germany. Dresden is an incredible city. Having been fire-bombed to pieces in WWII, I was expecting open spaces and signs of destruction. Having been part of East Germany, I was expecting to see the Communist bloc housing I have come to recognize throughout the Czech Republic. What I experienced was totally amazing - a mix of the old and the ultra-modern, and communist housing that has been renovated and painted in cheery colors. Unless you have been to these Central/Eastern European countries, it's very difficult to explain why communist architecture is so dreary - though it does remind me of the "projects" in Harlem and the South Bronx. Nondescript, run-down, and above all, GRAY, this housing looks as miserable as the people that probably lived there were - but in Dresden, they have done everything they can to make the flats look cheerful and modern and the effect is uplifting.

The people were beyond friendly and there were plenty of smiles from the people waiting on us in the cafes, the people walking in the park, and the people I encountered on the train. As I've expressed before, smiles are few and far between in Prague, especially among strangers, so it was like taking a deep breath of fresh air after being stuck in a stuffy room. I felt totally renewed and hadn't realized how heart-hungry I was for some kindness and friendliness. People didn't seem to mind as much that I didn't speak the language, and seemed happy that I used the three words I know in German.

Christoph was a wonderful guide, taking me through the main square, telling me stories about the various buildings and landmarks. He took me to a great restaurant in an arbor where I had an amazing salad with beans (Amanda will understand why that's amazing - beans are nowhere to be found here)! And we finished out the day with a long walk through a beautiful park to a small cafe on a lake where people were lounging in rowboats and discussed life over cafe lattes. I could have stayed there for a few more days - but alas, I had to make my way back to Prague. I'm hoping now, however, that I can make at least one more venture into Germany before I leave Europe. I could never have guessed that I would love it so much, but it truly touched me in a way that I can't explain. Down to the crosswalk sign people (who have on hats), Dresden was really fantastic.

Some highlights:
*The buildings and statues are almost black - mainly due to the ash from the bombings.
*There is a Volkswagen factory where the parts are brought in, but you can have your car custom assembled in front of you.
*Flats in Dresden are uncommonly cheap in Europe - so maybe I can move there someday. :)
*The transportation system is ridiculously efficient. Each tram stop has the numbers of the next trams and when they will arrive on screens.
*Waiters and waitresses are ridiculously efficient - both places we went, the waiters carried small, electronic machines where they could imput our order, print out our checks, and provide change for us.
*La Boheme was playing at the opera house - my favorite.

And I saw a pug puppy. So, of course, that completely and utterly made my day.

Anyways. . .I have a very busy rest of the week ahead of me - finishing up a few more documents for the Center, attending the annual exhibition at Iva's school tomorrow, tying up loose ends for Amanda and my trip to Vienna and Budapest in a couple of weeks, a Burma Center event Friday afternoon, and a big night out Friday night. I'm so busy, I'm not sure if I'm ever going to get a chance to relax. But, hey - that's the way I like it!

Friday, June 13, 2008

Breakthrough!!!

I had to come home and post because I, Sara Himelfarb - American, helped a tourist today in the metro. I had the knowledge and expertise to tell someone else: a) how to buy a metro pass, b) the importance of getting the metro pass stamped BEFORE getting on the metro, c) that I.P. Pavlova is said eee - pay - pahv -low - vah, d) that that stop is on the red line or c line - without even looking at a map, and e) that tomorrow night is Museum Night and that all of the major museums in Prague are free from 7 pm to 1 am. I felt like a true Prague-let. Or whatever they call people who live in Prague.

When I lived in New York, this was the way I knew that it was home - everytime I was able to tell a tourist how to get from the West Village to the Met or from Sylvia's to Bloomingdale's. My favorites were the tourists lost in Harlem because you could see them realize that they had accidently ended up in Harlem and that they thought they would be shot or mugged at any moment. As they expressed their concern at their mistake, obviously unaware that I lived in an apartment 25 feet away, it always gave me a sense of pleasure to tell them that they were far more likely to be mugged outside of their Hilton in Times Square and about 10 times more likely to be murdered in San Diego or St. Louis or whatever city they were visiting from - we call these "teachable moments." :)

Anyways. . .today was a great day. I met up with my Burma Center folks this evening and learned more about what they are up to and received feedback on my work to date. They are so excited and pleased with what I'm doing - which completely motivated me to do more. They actually told me to chill out and travel - but I'm still planning to do as much as possible now and hope for some time in the end to do a trip. Christoph, one of the project managers is from Germany, and he is taking me with him when he goes to set up a seminar next week in Dresden. I'm so thrilled, I can't even begin to tell you. I didn't have the opportunity to go to Germany yet - so I couldn't be more excited.

What else? I have a great weekend plan. JD's Jennifer is coming into Prague tomorrow with her friend Sarah, so I'm planning to have dinner with them and explore some of the museums while they are free. Late in the evening, I'm going to head to Blind Eye where Amanda and her friends will be dancing through the evening. I may even pull another all nighter in Prague - we shall see.

Life is great - my only small issue at the moment is that it hasn't been warm enough to hang my laundry to dry - so I have a huge (and by huge, I mean nearly my whole suitcase's contents) pile of clothing to wash. But I'm optimistic that tomorrow will be perfect laundry-drying weather.

Hope everyone has a great weekend!

--edit--
Also!!! I just received an email letting me know that I have been accepted as a founding board member of a new Uncommon Charter School in Little Rock, set to open in 2009. I'm so excited and pleased that I can be a part of this amazing program and get back to working in education, in a very different capacity. This is my first board position, so I could not be more thrilled to be able to take on this new venture!